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Jennifer and Filippo Fossati
wishing you a great new year, are pleased to present a show of
textiles from Afghanistan that will open this year's exhibition
season on January 22, 2005.
For a series of coincidences,
which already had the mark of Boetti's hand, we came across an
unusual series of rugs made in Afghanistan from the collection
of Kevin Sudeith. We had already seen war rugs, especially those
made during the Soviet occupation but what immediately caught
our attention was a group of textiles made during the American
invasion depicting maps of the world on backgrounds of brilliant
colors, framed by a decoration of flags and English writing.
Having already confessed our long time love for the works by
Italian artist Alighiero Boetti, to whom we dedicated two shows
in 1997 and in 1999, the connection was too obvious. Boetti had
his embroideries and rugs made in Afghanistan in the early 70s
and then in Pakistan, where his weavers escaped to. The provenance
of these previously unknown rugs, and more importantly the imagery
woven in was incredibly close to Boetti's. We knew, of course,
because Boetti himself had already mentioned it in 1992, of the
existence of rugs sold as "Boetti style", and that
with such a name attached to them it was a way of selling rugs
in the western hemisphere; we would never have thought that Alighiero's
lesson could have been taken so literally. We couldn't imagine
the scale that the influence of a single western artist could
have on an entire eastern culture. To us, the discovery of these
textiles is the demonstration that art has longer perspectives
in time and history then any other way of communication and that
the peaceful practices and ideas of Alighiero Boetti are still
traveling and floating alive in the air and on the ground handed
on in the form of a rug.
"... An anecdote: in Peshawar
there are a million Afghan refugees. Among them, various artisans
are making rugs in a new style, with helicopters, containers,
western words, etc... An Afghan man who lives in Milan and sells
these kind of rugs, speaks about them as belonging to a "Boetti
style" that has been imposed in Afghanistan! Therefore,
a person from Turin like me, that travels to the center of Asia
and arrives to have an influence on a millenary tradition...
It's enough of a reason to stop" (1.)
For thousands of years, the women of nomadic tribes in what is
now Afghanistan and its environs have been weaving rugs by hand.
The oldest known and intact example of these rugs in the world
is the "Pazyryk" rug dating from the 4th century B.C.
(currently housed in the St. Petersburg Museum). Traditionally,
these rugs are realized with thick and irregular threads from
wool and are characterized by a chromatic prevalence of a (brilliant
red. These traditional pieces of folk art have long depicted
the same deeply rooted motifs and are decorated with geometrical
patterns, octagons (the elephant's footprint) or stars of Daghestan
with occasional imagery derived from the weaver's everyday experiences.
The craft-work and colors undoubtedly
possess their fascination and in part may also be the reason
why an innovative conceptual artist such as Alighiero Boetti
set foot in Kabul for the first time in the spring of 1971. He
was a young talented artist who's work had been part of a group
of artists, several of whom based in Turin, that a young critic
from Genoa, Germano Celant, had begun to call Arte Povera. The
city of Turin seemed to be too small for Alighiero and, in addiction,
he loved to travel.
"Since my youth I always very much loved traveling. I was
fascinated by Taoism, by Buddhism. That probably derives from
my family: last year a book about one of my ancestors who lived
in the 18th century, Gianbattista Boetti, was republished. He
was a monk who traveled extensively in Syria, in the actual Lebanon.
On the Caucasus he founded a sort of new religion and put himself
at the head of an army of forty thousand soldiers for six years,
until Caterina of Russia sent there one of her best generals.
He was captured and sent to an island on the Baltic Sea..."(2.)
From 1971 until the Soviet occupation in 1979 Alighiero went
back and forth and managed to open an hotel, study with a Sufi
master and commission embroideries which he "produced in
breathtaking quantities, especially compared with the parsimonious
rarity with which Western art usually brings its work into the
world, they were made up of the same phrase multiplied by the
infinite variety afforded by the alternating colors of the different
squares. Alighiero Boetti's words travelled enormous distances,
from Rome to Peshawar and became the product of incompatible
cultures and people. There are more than a thousand of these
tapestries all over the world, within reach of a great number
of buyers. They were woven by women who had absolutely no idea
of the meaning of those words, but who were well aware of the
grid of lines crossing at right angles, as it is on the basis
of the relationship between the vertical threads of the warp
and the horizontal threads of the weft that the kilims, their
daily bread, are woven"(3.)
The practice of collaboration
was an interest shared by the Arte Povera group breaking down
barriers between author and audience through public participation
in acts of creation. Through his collaborators Boetti was letting
in marginalized women with a completely different cultural background.
Asking that the embroiderers use all available colors in equal
quantity, he left the choice of color composition to the women
themselves, using the tradition of embroidery to address an idea
of collective knowledge. His openness to interpretation, on the
part of his assistants, was always part of his intention.
Following the 1979 Soviet invasion into Afghanistan, suddenly,
the production of rugs on the market began seeing drastic alterations
in its visual contents. Over a million Afghan people fled into
Pakistan and the weavers started replacing flowers with tanks,
vases with rocket launchers, trees with hand-grenades and abstract
borders with airplanes and bullets. The tradition was rapidly
changing and, of corse, social developments and the Sharia laws
imposed later by the Taliban, that forbid the representation
of animate subjects in art, helped those changes. Weavers were
no longer allowed to portray images of birds, animals or people
and for women in Afghanistan, who's personal liberties were strongly
repressed, the rugs became a way to make their voices heard and
to communicate to the rest of the world what they live with everyday.
From Boetti's embroidery "Nella
primavera dell'anno millenovecentoottantanove" (In the Spring
of the Year Nineteen-Eighty-Nine) translated from Farsi writing
"Embroidered by Alighiero Boetti with help from Comrade
Shah-Vali Afghani, resident of Peshawar, Pakistan. Our dear homeland,
Afghanistan, has not only very pleasant weather but also large
mines and all sorts of wonderful fruit. Except for now, because
bombardments and gunfire of the Russian infidels, its beautiful
landscapes are destroyed and its pleasant weather is poisoned
by the application of dangerous gases. The Russians are plundering
its oil and gas resources and taking away its agricultural products."
Boetti's participation in the
events that marked history in Afghanistan and Pakistan was close
and direct until he died in Rome in 1994. Today we can say that
not only his work has obviously survived him but after the American
invasion of Afghanistan, we are witnessing another change of
course in the imagery of Afghani rug making, thanks also to his
example. There are signs of the growing sophistication and expertise
of the weavers and if you look more closely, you will notice
that those war motifs: tanks, paisley-shaped helicopters, jets,
hand grenades and AK47 rifles are making room to glimpse of that
damaged, but still tremendously resilient and important country
of Afghanistan. Unveiled nomad women lead convoys of camels carrying
their children across the desert. There are mountains, monuments
and gardens to document and save. These magic carpets do not
whisk us away to distant lands, they bring those lands to us,
like woolly postcards from another world, complete with maps
to assist in our orientation. Not far conceptually from what
Bellotto did of Dresden in his paintings.
"...What is extraordinary
(in Afghanistan) is the value that images take up in such societies;
the photograph of a garden, found in a copy of Time, will be
cut out and framed with tape, under a sheet of glass..."
(4.)
About the Maps of the World,
Alighiero said in an interview: "I did nothing for this
work, chose nothing myself, in the sense that the world is shaped
as it is I did not draw it; the flags are what they are I did
not design them. In short, I created absolutely nothing".
Giambattista Salerno states that "For sure he wasn't the
one who had invented the shape of seas and continents, not even
their cartographic projection; he certainly had not invented
the borders between states, nor the colors and designs of the
flags, even less the technique and the symbology of tapestry.
So this man made a picture without inventing anything, which
is already a folly, and now some descendant or assistant of some
weaver who came across Boetti's work is using the same language
but what can the result be? Look at it, it is the Map, there
is nothing more sumptuous; the most beautiful invention in the
world is inventing the world as it is, without inventing anything.
This is certainly not a new concept, nor is it one unknown to
contemporary art. In the very etymology of the word 'invention',
one finds the prefix of repetition; 'invenire' in Latin, 'rinvenire'
in Italian - 'découvrir' in French; it means to find or
to discover, to find again something that already exists (to
recall, for Boetti, is to 'tune the strings of the past')."
Notes:
1. - Afghanistan, Declarations by Alighiero Boetti grouped by
N. Bourriad in Documents, n.1 October 1992
2. - Afghanistan, Declarations by Alighiero Boetti grouped by
N. Bourriad in Documents, n.1 October 1992
3. - Marco Colapietro, The Contest of the E, in Origin and Destination,
Alighiero Boetti and Douglas Huebler, Palais des Beaux-Arts,
Bruxelles 1997
4 .- Afghanistan, Declarations by Alighiero Boetti grouped by
N. Bourriad in Documents, n.1 October 1992
esso Gallery
531 West 26th St.
New York, NY 10001
tel. 212 560 9728
fax 212 560 9729
http://www.essogallery.com
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